The Echeveria Lola is a hardy succulent common among households because it’s relatively easy to care for. It can happily grow in containers and landscapes.
In this article, we’ll tell you how to care and propagate this stunning succulent.
The Echeveria lola is the gorgeous outcome of the cross between the Echeveria lilacina and Echeveria derenbergii. However, other succulent experts say that either the Echeveria deresina or E.’ Tippy’ is a parent instead of E. derenbergii. Dick Wright created the Echeveria lola hybrid in 1980.
While it is considered a hardy succulent, the Echeveria lola is still susceptible to frost damage. If you’re in the USDA Hardiness Zone 9 or below, it’s best to plant the Echeveria lola in containers so you can bring them indoors when the temperature starts to drop. For those living in Zones 9-11, the Echeveria lola is perfect for outdoor growing.
In the spring and summer, the Echeveria lola produces bell-shaped peach, yellow, or coral pink blooms. These flowers sit on top of tall and spindly bloom stalks that can grow to almost 6.0″, which helps in attracting pollinators. The plant also produces offsets, which are sometimes called pups. The growing season for Echeveria lola is during the summer when it grows at a moderate rate.
A native to Mexico, the Echeveria lola is also often referred to as Mexican Hens and Chicks. However, this name is used to refer to several Echeveria variants.
How to Care for Echeveria Lola
Generally, the Echeveria lola needs full sun to partial shade to thrive. Remember to keep it away from direct afternoon sun to avoid sunburn on the leaves. We recommend that you put your Echeveria lola in an outdoor location where it gets bright sunlight in the morning and decreased light exposure in the afternoon.
When growing Echeveria lola indoors, place it beside a south-facing window where it will get the most sun. It can also thrive under grow lights. The right grow light can provide the light that your plant needs to grow.
While cooler temperatures will enhance the rosy coloring of your succulent, it does not hold up well to cold temperatures. An Echeveria lola will not be able to survive in climates with temperatures below 20° F.
If it’s not possible to bring your succulent indoors when the temperature starts to drop or when there is a forecast of rain, snow, or frost, we recommend that you use a portable greenhouse to help your plant survive the cold months. This portable walk-in greenhouse is easy to assemble and perfect for use both indoors and outdoors. It has enough space and eight durable shelves to shelter your succulent collection during the winter.
When it’s time to take your Echeveria lola outdoors, remember to acclimate it first to the full sun. Just like human eyes, succulents also need to adjust to changes in light exposure to avoid damage. Give your plant plenty of time to adapt to the difference in the amount of light it receives by slowly increasing its light exposure. Do not immediately leave it under the full sun for extended hours after it has stayed indoors or in the shade for a long time. Succulents are vulnerable to sunburn, especially the young ones.
Also, keep in mind that an acclimated succulent is still susceptible to sun damage, especially during summer, when the heat is intense. To protect your Echeveria lola from sunburn, we recommend that you use shade cloth. This shade cloth can protect your plant or greenhouse from harsh sunlight while still allowing air to circulate. Water can also go through the mesh, so you don’t need to remove it when watering your succulent.
Water and Humidity
Just like most succulents, your Echeveria lola loves the old “soak and dry” method of watering. Drench the soil with water until the water comes out from the drainage holes, then wait for the soil to dry up before you water it again. This watering method ensures that your plant gets the same amount of water it receives when it is in its natural habitat.
Make sure not to get water on the rosettes of your Echeveria lola to avoid problems caused by unneeded moisture. Likewise, avoid putting your plant in humid areas, like a closed terrarium, to prevent leaf rot. A terra-cotta pot is the best container choice for growing succulents. These pots have a surface that allows water to evaporate, and clay bottoms and drain holes that allow good drainage and proper ventilation. Having a suitable container for your succulent will minimize the effects of overwatering and prevent root rot.
Keep a close watch on your Echeveria lola for signs of overwatering, which is the most common cause of death among succulents. If the leaves are turning yellow, mushy, and falls off quickly, it means it’s getting more water than it needs. On the other hand, the leaves of an underwatered succulent will dry up, wilt, and turn brown.
A well-draining soil is essential for all succulents. For your Echeveria lola, choose a soil that drains quickly, so your plant doesn’t sit on water for too long. The soil should be one part perlite and one part potting soil. If you’re not very confident about making your own, you can get your succulent soil mix here.
The Echeveria lola doesn’t require regular feeding as it grows. However, when your plant appears bleak or has hit a growth plateau, you can give some fertilizer to make sure it gets the nutrients it needs to thrive. You can try these fertilizer capsules to stimulate the root growth and stem development of your Echeveria lola.
How to Propagate Echeveria Lola
If you want to know more about growing or caring for other succulents, please feel free to browse through our website. We at Eden Succulents aim to teach our readers everything we know about succulents, and we are open to your comments, too. So, if you have information related to succulents, please feel free to leave us a comment in the box below. Happy planting!